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Air Source Heat Pumps for Scottish Homes

Replace your gas or oil boiler with a system that delivers three to four units of heat for every unit of electricity — sized against a full heat loss survey, so it actually performs the way the brochure says.

We survey before we quote. Always.

A heat pump priced off floor area rather than a room-by-room heat loss calculation is a guess — and the wrong guess costs you every winter for fifteen years. The survey is free and comes with no obligation.

💷 Cash or finance Pay outright for the best total cost, or spread it monthly with £0 deposit. We show both figures side by side so you can decide with the real numbers.
Why a Heat Pump

Heating, Reinvented for Electricity

A heat pump doesn't burn anything. It moves existing heat from outside air into your home — which is why it can deliver more energy than it consumes.

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350–400% Efficient
A gas boiler is at best around 90% efficient. A well-designed heat pump delivers a seasonal performance factor of 3.5–4.0 — three and a half units of heat for every unit of electricity. The design is what determines whether you get 4.0 or a disappointing 2.5.
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Works in Scottish Winters
Modern units operate down to −20°C and are used routinely across Scandinavia. Efficiency does drop in the coldest weather, which is exactly why we size against your property's real heat loss rather than a rule of thumb.
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Pairs With Solar
A heat pump turns your home into a high, predictable electricity user — which is the single best thing that can happen to a solar payback. Running both typically shortens solar payback by two to three years.
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Better EPC, Better Value
Replacing a fossil fuel system lifts your EPC rating, which matters increasingly at sale and is already a hard requirement for landlords in parts of the private rented sector.
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Quiet and Low Maintenance
Modern units run at around 40–45 dB at a few metres — quieter than a fridge in most gardens. One annual service, no gas safety check, no flue, no combustion.
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Monitored Like Everything Else
Your heat pump goes onto MagHomes Monitor alongside any solar you have. We watch its actual efficiency — if the SPF drifts below design, we know before your bills tell you.
The Real Numbers

What It Actually Costs

A typical 3-bedroom Scottish semi replacing a gas boiler. Your survey gives you the exact figures for your property.

ItemAmount
Air source heat pump, cylinder & installation£11,000
Radiator upgrades where needed£1,500
Typical installed cost£12,500
Or spread over 7 years on financefrom £244/mo
Deposit required on finance£0

Illustrative figures for a typical 3-bedroom semi. Your actual cost depends on the heat loss survey, the emitter changes your property needs and the unit specified. Finance is subject to status and affordability checks — exact terms are confirmed at quote stage.

What it costs to run

Against oil, LPG or old electric heating, a well-designed heat pump normally cuts running costs substantially. Against mains gas it is tighter: electricity costs roughly four times as much per unit as gas, so the system has to achieve a seasonal efficiency above about 3.5 just to break even, and better than that to save you money. Whether yours does comes down entirely to insulation, emitter sizing and flow temperature — which is exactly what the survey establishes. If the numbers do not work for your property, we will tell you.

⚠️ Where heat pumps go wrong — and how we avoid it

Most heat pump horror stories come from the same two mistakes: an undersized system in an uninsulated house, and radiators left as they were. Both force the unit to run at high flow temperatures, which is where efficiency collapses from 400% to something closer to 250% — and your bills go up instead of down.

We do a full room-by-room heat loss calculation before quoting, and we'll tell you honestly if your property needs insulation work first. Sometimes that means we recommend external wall insulation before the heat pump — which lets us fit a smaller, cheaper unit and cuts what it costs you to run for as long as you own the house.

What We Install

Units We Trust

We specify against the property, not against a supplier deal. These are the manufacturers whose units we'll stand behind for 15 years.

Samsung EHS Mono
5–16 kW · R290 refrigerant · Flow temperatures to 70°C, so often no radiator changes needed on older systems.
Vaillant aroTHERM plus
3.5–12 kW · R290 · Among the quietest units available and strong low-temperature performance — a good fit for tight Scottish plots.
Mitsubishi Ecodan
4–14 kW · Proven in UK conditions with the widest installed base and the best-supported parts and service network.
How It Works

Survey to Switch-On

A heat pump install is a bigger job than solar — expect 6–10 weeks including the funding application.

1
Heat Loss Survey
Room-by-room calculation of your property's actual heat demand — not a rule of thumb based on floor area.
2
Design & Quote
We size the unit, specify any radiator changes, and give you a fixed price with the cash and finance figures side by side.
3
Installation
Typically 2–4 days. Old boiler removed, new unit and cylinder installed, system balanced and commissioned.
4
Commissioning & Monitoring
We tune the flow temperature over the first heating season and monitor real efficiency on MagHomes Monitor.
Common Questions

Heat Pump FAQs

Will my bills actually go down?
If you're replacing oil, LPG or electric heating, almost certainly yes and often substantially. If you're replacing mains gas, it depends on the design: electricity costs roughly four times as much per unit as gas, so you need a seasonal efficiency above about 3.5 to break even on running cost, and better than that to save. A well-insulated house with a properly sized system and low flow temperatures gets there. A poorly designed one doesn't — which is why we won't quote without doing the heat loss calculation first.
Do I need to replace all my radiators?
Usually not all of them. Heat pumps run at lower flow temperatures than boilers, so some rooms need a larger emitter to deliver the same heat. In a typical retrofit we replace two to four radiators. The high-temperature units we fit — like the Samsung EHS running to 70°C — often need fewer changes still, though running at those temperatures costs you some efficiency.
How do people usually pay for it?
Either outright or on finance. Paying cash costs you least overall. Finance means no deposit and a fixed monthly payment, which suits people replacing a boiler that has already failed and who would rather not find £12,000 at short notice. We quote both so you can see the difference before deciding, and there is no pressure either way.
Should I do insulation, solar or the heat pump first?
Insulation first, in almost every case. It reduces your heat demand permanently, which means a smaller and cheaper heat pump and lower bills for as long as you own the property. Solar generally comes last, because a heat pump raises your electricity demand and that is precisely what makes solar pay back faster. We survey the whole property and give you the sequence — even when that means we do less work for you this year.
Will the installation be MCS certified?
Yes. Every installer we work with is MCS registered and holds current certification. We survey, design and project-manage the job, and you receive your MCS certificate at handover. It is what underpins your warranty and any scheme or grant application, so keep it with your paperwork.
How long do they last?
Fifteen to twenty years for the outdoor unit with annual servicing, which is comparable to a good boiler. The cylinder typically lasts longer. Manufacturer warranties on the units we install run from five to seven years, extendable in most cases when serviced by an approved installer — which is one of the things a Care plan covers.

Find Out What You'd Qualify For

We'll carry out a full room-by-room heat loss survey, quote you a fixed price with cash and finance side by side, and give you the honest answer on whether a heat pump makes sense for your property.

Or call 07810 109060 — Mon–Fri 8am–6pm